Gideon Boot

Nairobi is a weired place:

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A BARBIE doll within a cake!

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The exclusive public toilets @ Stanley Hotel.

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A flooded and congested subway @ Globe Cinema Roundabout…

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An awesome poster on haircuts (top) for 60 bob and some “complete sex guides with 750 explicit singles” for 100 bob @ River Road. Hey, that’s the Play Boy next to Farmer’s Journal!

You try to merge all these different impressions to one big picture – the Nairobi picture – and hop into the next Matatu where they are playing Richie Spice’ “Gideon Boots”.

…i got a strong Nairobi beat and a blog in me hand :-)

jam rescue 2

This scenery…

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…shall just remind me of peaceful Embu downtown.
If you watch closely enough, you can see a “promotion” going on at the left side of the road where two dudes tried to sell raffle tickets and promised some things like TV sets and other goods rural folks might be attracted to.

And then I arrived in Nairobi, it was starting to rain, there was a agonizing traffic jam and I felt hungry. 20 minutes waiting for a Matatu + fighting with other passengers over 20cm of space only to pay the rush-hour fare? Naaa…..

Java House downtown, I think, should be renamed “Jam Rescue 2”.

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And yes, I was wrong: they DO have toothpicks at Java House.

AOB:

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Just WHO still wants to have a fire brigade downtown? This fire truck took about 5 minutes to get out of its garage and drive to this spot (~ 20m away from the brigade) only to be stuck in a typical Nairobi rush-hour traffic jam.

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Anyone still in need of some last minute christmas presents?

Don’t look any further – this inflatable mzee krissimassi goes for 50 bob, the bigger one for 100 bob.

Nairobi. I somehow love this place.

struggling (with a mental chaos)

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There are these days when you are busy doing many small things here and there, and end up having this emptiness in your brain in the evening. Today is one of those days. It sucks. It just sucks.

It’s strange, coz the day started with lots of communication as early as 4 a.m., brought lots of interesting impressions, a missed movie downtown (sorry, Barbara, but thx for the invitation + pls feel free to ask me on that WordPress.com thing) and a failed repair of an old notebook (Kilonzo, we shall find a cure for that heat sink problem soon).

And then there’s christmas. I found a Kshs. 1.000 note in my pocket, went to that Catholic (!) bookshop and bought the “Agikuyu – their customs, traditions & folklore” book for me. I needed to. THERE’S NO ESCAPE FROM THIS ONE, dear KUI, you hear me? Let’s go through this one together, or I’ll spam your blog with smilies.

I also saw the “Walking in Kenyatta Struggles” memoires by Duncan Ndegwa for sale at Prestige bookshop. Kshs. 2.500 /= for old stories on Mr A-G-pinstripe? Now that’s a lot of mbeca.

The best part, though: while waiting for my friends in front of that bookshop, I talked to a newspaper vendor and asked him about the Kenya Times office. After all, these cowards still owe me a Tusker.
The man told me he sells a maximum of 2 copies of Kenya Times each day. 2 COPIES! OH PLEASE!!!!

‘Nways, it’s just damn good to spend some interesting days in my beloved Nairobi. Back to shaggz life soon.

Man en piny maber miwuoro :-)

Wenn ich mir die Bemerkung erlauben darf…

Die wahre Kunst, ein Praktikum in Kenia – aufm Land, wo man als Mzungu täglich dumm angequatscht wird und warmes Wasser ein Fremdwort ist – durchzuziehen, liegt darin, sich an verschiedenen Abenden konsequent in eine andere Welt zurückziehen, in der man vor allem den Krach von nebenan aka Nachtclub mit akustischer Dauerpenetration ignoriert, oder zumindest als nicht störendes Hintergrundgeräusch in positive Energie umwandelt.

Gesegnet sind die Abende mit Stromausfällen, an denen ICH hier mal die Mucke bestimmen kann via mein Notebook. Aaaaahhhh.

Seriously, ich würd hier gern mal die ReinigungsCD nebenan in der Bar ausm Player nehmen und bißchen Indy/Emo/Alternative/Punk/Rock einlegen. Oder vielleicht auch Indietronics/Electrotrash, weil das hat ja nen kompatiblen Beat. Dito House.

Gespannt wäre ich dann vor allem auch auf die Reaktion(en) der überwiegend männlichen Barbesucher, die sich an so einem schönen Freitag abend volllaufen lassen und natürlich vorher schon mit billigem Chang’aa (gepantschter Alk aus Eigenproduktion) vorgeglüht haben, um dann später vor den wenigen weiblichen Besucherinnen des Pubs so tun zu können als wenn sie allein vom Bier high geworden sind. Alkohol kostet Geld – und wer hier punkten möchte, bastelt vor allem erstmal an seinem Image.

Gegen frühen Abend werden hier die alten Klassiker aus Zaire/Congo gespielt, die ich selber aufm Notebook habe. Schön. Danach allerdings versucht sich dann ein ungeschickter Flaschenaugust am viel zu aufgedrehten Fernseher, der infolge dessen 2h lang die Besucher mit den sich wiederholenden Tagesnachrichten beschallt. Und irgendwann dann wenn der Fernseher wieder leiser gedreht wurde, versucht sich selbiger ungeschickter Bierflaschenschubser an der Stereoanlage. Die Auswahl der Radiosender erfolgt dann natürlich bei vollkommen aufgedrehter Lautstärke – und das ist für kenianische Verhältnisse auch gar nicht weiter schlimm, denn wer was hat, der zeigt es auch. Außerdem gilt laute Musik als Marketinginstrument: je lauter desto besser.

Nachdem also die Radiomusik irgendwann als zu fad empfunden wurde, und die reichen Kikuyus der Gegend mit ihrem Pickup vorgefahren sind, um in Cowboystiefeln und dem typischen Hut elegant zu trinken, wird die “One Man Guitar” CD eingelegt.
Mit der one man guitar Musik, bei der ein Mann an der Gitarre zu einer sich nach fünf Takten wiederholender Melodie schmutzige Lieder singt (was das ganze ja wieder sympathisch macht, und überhaupt: es is ja zumindest auf Gikuyu), verhält es sich in etwa so wie mit der Akzeptanz von dieser unbeschreiblich grauenhaften “Musik”, die hauptsächlich im Rheinland (ja?) als “Schlagerpop” vermarktet wird. Brauchen wir nicht weiter drüber reden, nich?

Die Musik läuft übrigens den ganzen Tag. Und damit meine ich 24h lang.

Morgens um 7 Uhr werde ich hier täglich durch den Kartoffelaugust geweckt. Im Innenhof – mein Fenster liegt zum Innenhof raus – steht ein Arbeitsknecht ausm Restaurant nebenan und zerdrückt Kartoffeln zu Pommäääs. French Fries. Chips! Täglich. Mehrmals am Tag.

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Letztens stehe ich in Nairobi im Nakumatt (Supermarkt) vor der manuellen Pommesmaschine und hab ernsthaft überlegt, ob ich nen neues Arbeitsgerät für meine Nachbarn kaufe. Eines das weniger ausgeleiert ist. WD-40 hilft da leider nicht mehr weiter.

Kaum hat der Kartoffelfachmann seinen Dienst vollbracht, tritt der Schlachter in Aktion, der pünktlich um 8 Uhr morgens die Motorsäge anwirft, um die Kühe fürs Wochenende zu zerteilen. Wochenende bedeutet hier vor allem Abschied vom staple food: unter der Woche gibt es gekochten Mais mit Bohnen in allen Variationen, am Wochenende Fleisch. Gebraten. Gekocht. Gegrillt.

Nachdem die Kuhhälften zerteilt worden sind, kommt die Putzkolonne, die mit Wasser und reichlich Omo den Innehof schrubbt. Der Hof ist nicht wirklich dreckig, aber immerhin zementiert, so daß sich die tägliche Reinigung quasi aufdrängt.

Und jetzt mal zu den Vorteilen. Schließlich habe ich mir hier das alles ausgesucht und bisher noch keine Sekunde lang bereut. Ich mache hier bei der Arbeit genau das was mir am meisten Spaß macht (~ Bastellösungen für technische Probleme finden und mit den Leuten quatschen), ich bin einem super Team das mich vollkommen integriert hat (wer von den Ausländern hat das schon?!) und kann hier jeden Tag Mangos essen. :-)

Nur die Musik nebenan ist echt scheisse.

Home sweet home!

visual roundup

A collection of scenes I’ve caught during the week. Because life is about seeing and sharing. Here you go:

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Some dude presenting puppet theatre aka The Muppet Show on Mama Ngina Street in Embu earlier this week. The puppets looked really really strange. Nice!

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Isn’t this beautiful? That’s my way to work every morning.

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Back in Nbo for an extended weekend, and a quick visit to Nakumatt Village once again shows the huge difference between all these small worlds embedded in this country. There were some news on the Garissa floods again, and they actually showed the very same places I’d been to before one week ago. Strange. You’re standing there in this oversized supermarket and see these places that are in Kenya, but still seem to be worlds away. And there’s a lot one could argue about in terms of deforastation + too much agriculture on the river beds which leads to soil erosion etc etc but then….compare Garissa to Mwingi and you’ll start wondering why money hasn’t solved any problems in one of these two places in the past. And “disaster management” isn’t something one can buy for money only.

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“Horny Goat Weed”. Well, DON’T, just don’t even think about asking me how I came across this peculiar trouvaille. The name is quite catchy though. Hehehe…

What’s it with Goats (wabuzi) in this country anyways?? Oh my…

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Looks like POLO, by Ralph Lauren. Smells like POLO, by Ralph Lauren.

I had to buy this one, sorry. A price of Ksh 129 /= (compared to ~ Ksh 4.000 /= for the original) is something where my metrosexuality comes out…

yes, custoomaaaaa!

Anyone remembers this mid-1990s commercial for UNGA where a women enters a shop and asks for flour?
The sales guy comes up with a bunch of flowers and a spoon because “next time, just ask for UNGA”.

I SOOO wish I knew the brand name for something we technicoool piipool call a BATTERY HOLDER. Or as we pronounce it in Central Kenya: Battely Holdaa.

Something like this, actually:

6XAA-Holder

 

A small plastic box where you put batteries and then attach it to e.g. a radio or anything like that. Something very simple, something you can get in any place in Nairobi for something around Ksh 35/=.

But not so in Embu! To make matters worse, I also added the words “for batteries SIZE D”. Size D = those ones you put in a torch. The big, fat Eveready batteries that any duka sells.

So the shop dude & his dudette comes up with a battery clip. Another one comes with a bulb holder. HELLO? DID I SAY CLIP? DID I SAY ANYTHING ABOUT A BULB???

WTF?!?! Is it me? Is it my healthy mixture of gamaan-kikuyu-kenyan inglish that doesn’t get the message across?

So I checked about 12 electlicool shops in Embu and only ONE shop was actually operated by a real technician. A jamaa who really understood what I was talking about. Unfortunately, he didn’t have it. And of course, we make these things out of a piece of paper and some rubber band. There’s no need for a battery holder in your radio if there’s a jua kali solution available. Yani, I need this holder for the refurbishment of a scientific machine, so a jua kali solution won’t be allowed.

Which gets us to the core problem: most shopmen are just too dumb. These guys are actually selling SOLAR PANELS and MOBILE PHONES (which are quite complicated to some extend), but don’t have the slightest clue of what they are actually selling. Dito my mobile phone holder story earlier this year, which left me building my own because these girls @ Moi Avenue selling mobile phones only know Nokia, Samsung, Motorola phones and batteries, car chargers and other “fast selling” items.

You know, I am a bit mean from time to time. Earlier last week, I asked my dear Embu folks for a COAXIAL CABLE with 50 Ohms impedance instead of the usual 75 Ohm cable which is used for TV antennas. The one with 50 Ohms is used for radio communication equipment. Go figure what kind of hassle that was…

The reason for blogging this is that it clearly shows the difference between rural areas and urban areas. Same applies for the food available in hotels/restaurants countrywide. Only the usual stable food like Githerii, Mathaahaaaaaaaa, Ugali and maybe some greens (vegetabools) as well as snacks such as samosas or mandazi are available.
I actually prefer the rural, natural life to the hectic world in Nairobi, lakini – I grew up in big cities, and there are these small things I would like to be adopted by rural shop owners. How about a nice steak restaurant in Embu? How about a Java House in Nyeri, Embu, Meru, Nakuru to name a few? Is the idea so far fetched? There’s a market for that, ppl DO have the money. Just a nice place that offers more comfort than the usual Nyama Choma Tusker joints with the ordinary food anyone cooks at home anyways. Or am I just spoiled by city life? Sijui…

Nairobi…

A relatively short visit @ nyumbani over the weekend proved once again how much this “City in the Sun” differs from shaggz, which I’ve btw already started to appreciate. After all, there are some things you’ll never find in Embu:

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1. City Council thugs that hide behind other cars and wait just until you’ve left your car. This happened to a friends car on Sato asubuhi in downtown – we had just left the place for 2 minutes and the front wheel was already clamped. And there was no one in sight to whom we could pay the 70 bob parking fee.
Fortunately, it just took a little bit of the “JKE-going-really-mad”-show (aka kelele mingi) to persuade these yellow folks to promptly unclamp the car. He even didn’t want to be paid: “No, it is ok, me I don’t even have a receipt book”. But clamping is ok or what? What a ******* *********.

@CityCouncil: IMAGINE I COULD BE A TOURIST VISITING NAIROBI AND I DON’T KNOW ABOUT THIS PROCEEEEDJAAAH. How do I know what to do next? To whom do I have to speak to? Where is the office(r) that takes responsibility for such actions? Who will pay me for the time I’ve lost to clear this problem? ==> Customer Service??

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2. The Tree Planting & Beautification Programme, if I may remind you. I really like this word…“Beautification”.
I saw an older woman planting little seedlings next to the young trees on Moi Avenue and congratulated her on her important work. I really appreciate what these people are doing for the city. For us. ASANTE SANA!
(And you might well imagine what kind of job groups they are having….A?, B?)

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3. Oh boy, we were SOOOOO hungry today. And besides, I really wanted to eat a real + a really gooood steak – just as pictured on this typically oversized billboard.

Nairobi is the only city, I guess, where they don’t feel irritated by putting such mouth-watering advertisments next to low income areas. I feel a bit irritated by this add.

(btw, anyone knows a good place in Embu where I’ll get a medium done steak which chips and salads that doesn’t feel like eating old rubber and tastes like Omo? thx!)

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(@CG: kuja, bwana, your car is already here! :-)

4. Bwana Harrycane and I went to see Mzeecedric‘s parents in Mbagathi to show them GPRS via Safaricom – and we even managed to chat with Mzeecedric in Europe via Skype (VoIP!).
Sitting on the veranda, watching over Nairobi National Park and being able to actually chat with someone who is ~ 6600kms away over a wireless gprs + voip telephone connection still fascinates me. This GPRS thing really is a step forward from the awful 951 dial-in procedure, and I am very curious to see how reliable and fast UMTS (WCDMA) will be once it is fully deloyed nationwide.

Still, the best place to surf the net for free is JavaHouse. Yani, the one at Junction didn’t have Inet as “we switch it off during peak-hours (= till 8 pm)”. Why?? The one at Adams “Oh, it just doesn’t work…but only today…”. Yeah, right.
Gigiri was open though, and next to downloading some software for the office, I even chatted for a short moment with our sista Kui in Abuja. Nice!

Nairobi really is this city of different worlds.

And now from all this luxury back to the rural comfort…aterere..