thoughts – Page 19

yes, custoomaaaaa!

Anyone remembers this mid-1990s commercial for UNGA where a women enters a shop and asks for flour?
The sales guy comes up with a bunch of flowers and a spoon because “next time, just ask for UNGA”.

I SOOO wish I knew the brand name for something we technicoool piipool call a BATTERY HOLDER. Or as we pronounce it in Central Kenya: Battely Holdaa.

Something like this, actually:

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A small plastic box where you put batteries and then attach it to e.g. a radio or anything like that. Something very simple, something you can get in any place in Nairobi for something around Ksh 35/=.

But not so in Embu! To make matters worse, I also added the words “for batteries SIZE D”. Size D = those ones you put in a torch. The big, fat Eveready batteries that any duka sells.

So the shop dude & his dudette comes up with a battery clip. Another one comes with a bulb holder. HELLO? DID I SAY CLIP? DID I SAY ANYTHING ABOUT A BULB???

WTF?!?! Is it me? Is it my healthy mixture of gamaan-kikuyu-kenyan inglish that doesn’t get the message across?

So I checked about 12 electlicool shops in Embu and only ONE shop was actually operated by a real technician. A jamaa who really understood what I was talking about. Unfortunately, he didn’t have it. And of course, we make these things out of a piece of paper and some rubber band. There’s no need for a battery holder in your radio if there’s a jua kali solution available. Yani, I need this holder for the refurbishment of a scientific machine, so a jua kali solution won’t be allowed.

Which gets us to the core problem: most shopmen are just too dumb. These guys are actually selling SOLAR PANELS and MOBILE PHONES (which are quite complicated to some extend), but don’t have the slightest clue of what they are actually selling. Dito my mobile phone holder story earlier this year, which left me building my own because these girls @ Moi Avenue selling mobile phones only know Nokia, Samsung, Motorola phones and batteries, car chargers and other “fast selling” items.

You know, I am a bit mean from time to time. Earlier last week, I asked my dear Embu folks for a COAXIAL CABLE with 50 Ohms impedance instead of the usual 75 Ohm cable which is used for TV antennas. The one with 50 Ohms is used for radio communication equipment. Go figure what kind of hassle that was…

The reason for blogging this is that it clearly shows the difference between rural areas and urban areas. Same applies for the food available in hotels/restaurants countrywide. Only the usual stable food like Githerii, Mathaahaaaaaaaa, Ugali and maybe some greens (vegetabools) as well as snacks such as samosas or mandazi are available.
I actually prefer the rural, natural life to the hectic world in Nairobi, lakini – I grew up in big cities, and there are these small things I would like to be adopted by rural shop owners. How about a nice steak restaurant in Embu? How about a Java House in Nyeri, Embu, Meru, Nakuru to name a few? Is the idea so far fetched? There’s a market for that, ppl DO have the money. Just a nice place that offers more comfort than the usual Nyama Choma Tusker joints with the ordinary food anyone cooks at home anyways. Or am I just spoiled by city life? Sijui…

wendete wa?

“Die beste Bildung findet ein gescheiter Mensch auf Reisen” (J.W.v.Goethe)

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I was standing on the bridge to Garissa downtown when I received a very disturbing message that really pissed me off.
It was just like in a movie – standing on that bridge that connects the green countryside south of Tana River with the semi-arid north-eastern part of the country – the bridge that connects these two worlds, Coast and North Eastern Province – and the content of the message meant to be a final cut in some very personal things that had kept me busy for the last two years. Something where I instantly realized the ironic relationship between the message and this transition between both worlds. You cross the bridge and you’re in another world.
The beautiful part of it, though: the bridge opens to both worlds. And it’s up to you which way you go.

“Mapenzi ni kikohozi, hayawezi kufichika.”

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Two days later I find myself on a funeral in the middle of nowhere. Nowhere being somewhere in Mwingi District – the sister-in-law of a colleague had died the other day after a long illness and we stopped by on our way back from Garissa.
Despite of the 3h sermon in Kikamba, of which I didn’t understand a single word (except for the greetings of course), this was a very touching experience.
Don’t ask me why, but funerals in Kenya aren’t as sad as they are in Germany. The circumstances that led to the death may often be irritating, but the whole procedure has a warmth one can only understand by witnessing it live.
Listen to the choir singing beautiful songs with warm voices, hear the village elders speak up and show their respect for the individual, catch the atmosphere and feel the community spirit. This is not a time to say good bye, but a reunifaction process that helps to give the body back to where it came from. A beautiful closing for the circle of life.

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While standing at the grave and strewing soil on the coffin, I managed to burry some of my aggregated hatred. The message that had pissed me off earlier is partly buried somewhere out there in Mwingi district, six feet under.

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Travelling in Kenya also includes that you’ll be given a cackling hen from another colleague, who wants to share his wealth with you. So you eventually arrive back in Embu with that hen in the luggage (someone else took it) and think: travelling indeed broadens the mind.

p.s.: another irony – these rural places lack any electricity or tapped water, but I was aboool to check my emails via GPRS.

@ X.N.Iraki

“If you ever taught maths in some girls’ schools, then you know what learnt helplessness is.” (source)

Dear X.N.Iraki,

I thought about the same thing this morning while cleaning the dishes in the kitchen. In fact, I was thinking about why I chose to come to Kenya – and not any other place. The country where clothes become dirty while walking in matope infested areas. The country where I as a white person will always be called “mzungu” in rural areas – and instantly be asked to “weka blllead”. The country where the official school system never really appreciated creativity and ppl are supposed to repeat aquired knowledge instead of looking for working solutions and trying them without fearing the consequences. The country where those who can afford, buy a car – and instantly make sure that everyone will see them inside their cars. The country where almost everyone lives in different worlds at the same time, coping with different jobs and parallel businesses that help to fill up the wallet. The country where every little piece of hygienic article is wrapped in three different old newspapers & plastic bags that eventually end up polluting the environment. The country that hosts the UNEP – this international programme which so often only produces interesting papers but doesn’t even have the powers to implement these fine ideas on national levels…

“We write in the newspapers every day (including this article) on what should be done, but never do it!”

Yes, becos in Kenya there’s always someone else who is “supposed to” do the job. It starts with taking responsibility for yourself, and doesn’t stop by thinking about how waste should be disposed of. Ppl just don’t =think= about it.
Like Matatu drivers. Do they care about their driving styles? Or the loud music being played? Do they ever think about how their driving might affect others?
Or the people who abstract too much water from the rivers or even pollute it – do they actually =think= about their wrongdoings?
Or those who move to urban areas to improve their chances – do they actually realize that they’re adding to the 39%++ of wananchi who are already living in urban areas? How big is Nairobi these days?

Kenya is full of qualified, well educated people. Young people have travelled to the West and East, adopted ideas and have seen how things could work (and how it shouldn’t be done) – but upon returning, many realize that it takes much more than just your own personal opinion on how good everything could be.

“Our thinking is the key to prosperity”, is what you wrote, and I can only fully agree to this. It’s the mindset, the willingness to make a change and to start at least somewhere. It’s our thinking.

So why did I chose Kenya? Becos I grew up here and sometimes feel like being half Kenyan despite of my skin colour and the fact that I will always be a foreigner here? Naaa….it’s BECAUSE KENYA IS A PARADISE in the waiting line. This place could be heaven, and I often think: woah, yeah, this is the uhuru na umoja spirit we always envied the Tanzanians for. This is the start of a new generation.

Just look at the introduction of mobile phones in Kenya and how fast the market has grown. Nowadays, even an old cucu in rural areas knows how to use the menu structure on her mobile phone. Something you will rarely see with old ppl in the West, for instance. Or how this prepaid thing has been implemented and substituted the fragile conventional accounting system. Or how microfinances have succeded in the past. Equity Bank? It works! We even have a (relatively) new emerging Kenyan cultural scene – something that has come from within! There’s no need to repeatedly play Daudi Kabaka’s “harambee harambee” if we can enjoy new songs like Ronald Ontiri’s “Speed Governor” or Ukoo Flani’s “Angalia saa”…

It’s not the experts from foreign countries who will make a change, and neither will it be the KenyaTourists (KTs) returning from abroad who will change this country. It’s all of us – the poor beggar on the street who will eventually realize that the mzungu he has just asked for bread actually hasn’t much more to share than any other ordinary chap; the KenyaRoots (KRs) who have endured here while their friends have left for the West and East; it’s the intellectuals at universities who will reduce their hatred and start turning many of their golden plans into reality; it’s the politicians who will actually start doing something for the money they are being paid by taking personal responsibility for their decisions; it’s the youth that will start demanding more perfomance as it has done so in the past; it’s you, me, your neighbour – everyone. This is why I came back to Kenya. I want to be part of this progress.

“Africa may have all the natural resources, but if our mindset does not change, we shall continue stagnating, waiting for outsiders to solve our problems, some which we can easily solve ourselves. Example; Africa does not need to import water, it is already here! Why then do we have a shortage of fresh water?”

Population growth? Urbanization? Mismanagement? Corruption? Deforrestation? Over abstraction from rivers / surface and ground water? Because we’ve waited for someone / the government to take care of this? For someone who is (was) “supposed to” do the job?

As for me, I never considered the Chinese or Indians underdeveloped just because most of them are living in rural areas. Didn’t they have these fine cultures that date back 2000 years ago? And I never thought people in rural areas might be underdeveloped just because e.g. most of them lack access to clean drinking water. After all, they have their income (agriculture, lifestock, etc.) and have somehow managed to survive. Isn’t it that it’s these people we can actually learn from? Did they depend on anyone to make a living?
For me, (under)development is a state of mind – and not a matter of how many Kenyan households have tv & vcr sets or a car. Something that doesn’t depend on the prevailing political system or the availabiltiy of commodities…

shopping impressions

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Something I will never understand in Kenya is why there are huge amounts of various bakery products such as marble cake or muffin cake – and yet they a) still look the same = lack of unique characteristics = confuses customers, b) taste the same way and c) are dry and only taste when eaten with tea or coffee. Dito shortbreads and other british heritage a.k.a. these-guys-don’t-know-how-to-cook&bake-foodstuff. Ati, scones? Oh c’mon, please…

Like there are SOOOOOO many differenct types of cake one can bake and still, all they do is trying to sell us the same, very boring and mono-typed dry cake. Sometimes with a bit of chocolate or even a sugar icing – but that’s about it then.

Why? It’s not that Kenya lacks the ingredients – eggs, flour, baking powder, sugar, milk, chocolate, fruits, vegetables, cream, etc. – it’s all there! So how come there are only a few GOOD selected bakeries countrywide? Anyone remembers this (jewish) bakery/café in ABC Place, Nairobi (back in the 1990s)? A piece of (very tasty!) Schwarzwälderkirschtorte sold for about Ksh. 120/= back then…

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Looks like HUGO, by Hugo Boss. And smells like HUGO, by Hugo Boss.

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But costs Ksh. 89/=, which is about EUR 1,-. Hehehe….

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They should actually sell such a sharpening stone with every Made-in-China knife sold around the world. Imagine I had to go to Nairobi to get this one for 50 bob – my dear Embu folks tried to sell me an iron file…oh my. And these chinese manufacturers sometimes even have the guts to put a GERMANY writing on their “quality” knives. Bastards…

We lead while others follow..

…well, do we?

What’s the sense in writing papers on water conservation if I just can’t convince those Mamas doing the laundry (at the place I am currently staying at) in preserving the resource “water” by closing the tap after enough water has flown into the wash basin?

What’s the sense in honouring national heroes on special events if their ideologies and the values they lived and were appreciated for are consequently ignored or not even lived by those who are supposed to lead others?

What’s the sense in talking about politics and things that “should be done” if we just can’t make a difference and pull up a project on our own to start at least somewhere?

It’s this age, this special moment when you realize that you are there to inspire others and be some sort of a role model. A demanding situation, where our own heroes are slowly dying away and we suddenly realize that the honeymoon period is over.

What is it that I would like to teach, show, give to and demand from our children one day? Will I be able to inspire them as much as my heroes have inspired me?

The Collector of Worlds

Anyone remembers Binyavanga’s comment on “Nairobi people living in two different worlds?”. It is so true. Again and again.

There was this public reading (organized by the German Cultural Centre (Goethe-Institut) & the German Department @ University of Nairobi) by Ilija Trojanow and Binyavanga Wainaina at the Goethe Auditorium (@ Maendeleo ya Wanawake House – used to be one of Nairobi’s tallest buildings in the 1970s!) on Thursday evening. They jointly read passages in German and English from a new book by Ilija Trojanow about Sir Richard Francis Burton, a “Mecca pilgrim and world traveller” (btw, Burton also introduced the first edition/translation of the Indian Kamasutra books to the UK among other stories). Ilija wrote a biographical novel aptly titled “Der Weltensammler” (The Collector of Worlds) on R.F.Burton – a man who was just as mysterious and sort of multicultural cosmopolitan as the author himself. Someone who kept track of his Wanderlust and never really stuck to a place. But whereas Burton’s wife eventually burned all his diaries, Trojanow has been an active publisher and promoter of books. I like Ilija’s picturesque style of describing situations, and how he manages to combine all these different worlds under one roof by using different characters / perspectives in his book.

I had read about this event in the Daily Nation on Tuesday and instantly knew it would be a perfect chance to meet some old friends at the GI. Ilija used to be a student @ the German School in Nairobi way back in the 1970s/80s and has since then often returned to the country. He’s a third culture kid like most of us out here in the blogosphere (all Nairobians are to some extent, ama?) and seems to have an understanding of the culture in the colonial East Africa and how to describe it in his book through the eyes of Burton. An interesting story.

I think it is against this background that made him write a novel on such a controversial character Burton was. And of course the Arab + East African connection: Trojanow recently accepted (not: converted to!) the Islam as his religion because parts of his family already share that believe (and for other, much more intimate reasons which he disclosed in other interviews online. Reasons that make me understand this rather unusual, but very motivated move) . Burton disguised as a Muslim pilger in order to go on a pilgrimage to Mecca (he even received a circumcision to fully prepare for the pilgrimage!) – something Trojanow also achieved (~ getting a visa for Saudi Arabia) by living with the Deobandi in India for some time.

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Binyavanga and Ilija are two very different characters who – in my opinion – have come around and have an understanding for the cosmopolitan context (both lived in SA, btw). An ability which is needed to describe situations – I guess you have to be some sort of collector to aggregate impressions/worlds and imagine them in your head before you can put them down in words. After all, it’s just not the beauty of the language that attracts people to read, but the way these worlds are combined / arranged and described using appropriate words. Both authors know how to do this – and have found their readers here and elsewhere.

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Talking of B.Wainaina – Kwani? #4 will be out soon and hopefully available for the christmas market. All KenyanTourists (KTs) abroad should seriously think about getting their copy this time. Kwani #1,#2 & #3 have already been a success story and received with great interest by the public. Obviously, I couldn’t resist from asking both authors about a possible future cooperation, and the idea isn’t so far fetched…Kwani isn’t Wainaina’s only project – he told us about his 2nd (own) book which needs to be finished soon. Good luck!

Going to such events also includes meeting new people…new worlds…new stories. There’s this jamaa by the name of Bernhard we met tonight who came all the way from Germany to Kenya to do an internship at Kenyatta Hospital in Nairobi. Free of charge! Ok, there’s a scholarship that pays for his expenses, but nevertheless – most of you can easily imagine what it takes to work at Kenyatta Hospital. Bernhard told me that he also blogs his experiences. In any case: respect, bro!

Finally: Welcome home, Kui! (<= I would like to put a smiley here..)

Spotlight on Kenyan Music Vol. 2

When I woke up this morning, it was still dark outside. The bed is just next to the window and when I opened my eyes, I first of all mistook the darkness for a missing view only to realize a few moments later on that some things are actually better than what they look like at first moment.

Last night saw us going to an event called “Spotlight on Kenyan Music 2006” – a “finalist’s concert and cd launch” organized by the Alliance Française (sponsored by Total & the embassy) which presented the “best of the 2006 Spotlight on Kenyan music harvest representing Nyanza, Western, Rift Valley, Eastern and Nairobi Provinces”.
I once worked for Total (in Germany) and my parents had been working for the German Cultural Centre before, so it’s this mixture of interests that always hunts me down and reminds me what kind of “Kulturpolitik” the French have (compared to the Germans). Now that’s a completely different approach, and speaking from the European perspective, I am delighted that at least the French(men) have found some sponsoring that helps to organize such wonderful events:

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Spotlight on Kenyan Music Vol. 1 has already been a success – my friend Mbuzimoja had sent me a compilation last year, so this time I didn’t want to miss it and catch the spirit for myself. The spirit of “new” music that is being performed by local artists, something that makes you feel proud of the country and lets you forget about imported styles. No HipHop (pole Msanii_XL), but instead a focus on local tunes being reinterpreted by local artists. Something that wasn’t possible 10 years ago – all these fine networks and developments weren’t possible back then as we didn’t have a wide choice of tv channels, radio channels (that would air new tunes to far away places), a strong middle-class with lots of transport (= activity downtown even after 8 pm), efficient telecommunication networks and this overall Uhuru spirit (as I like to call it) people felt right after independance. In other words: the framework is there and it’s about time that we wake up to local music being played on the radio – not only Dolly Parton, JayLo and other imported tunes & styles. And beware – as my guitar teacher Maurice always liked to stress out: the tunes found in many Soukous songs actually come from Western Kenya and have only been interpreted by Congolese artists. So even when you hear Soukous tunes on the new Spotlight Sampler – that’s the Kenyan heritage!

The event took place at Alliance Française Gardens in Nairobi, entrance was free and it sure attracked lots of young people. Good!
This years artists included Ronald Ontiri, Naitiri Sounds, Anthony Mutuku, Bosco Mulwa, Imbako International, Shanta, Zingamoto Afrika, Sauti, Zippy Okoth, Teto Tutuma and Valentine Khakasa. The lineup was similar to the one on CD, every artist perfomed his/her song and the crowd started dancing despite of the intermittent rains. Good music needs to be enjoyed and shared – and I wonder where this event will be hosted next year. Maybe Uhuru Park? Would be great!

As a bonus, ZANNAZIKI came as “guest appearance” but they sounded way too professional compared to the other artists and somehow disappointed but that’s just my impression. The Spotlight sampler sold for 600/= Kshs. and was available as CD and on tape. The guy from the record company pointed out that it had been licenced to oversee markets as well – so maybe we’ll soon find it in the US and Europe?
For those who like good and new local music, and who really appreciate this much awaited approach on the local music scene (while ignoring all recent developments in the HipHop world), the purchase of the Spotlight Samplers is a must just like all three Kwani? books :-)

Some snapshots from the event:

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Teto Tutuma with “Iyie Ake” (“Only You”), delivering a very authentic performance

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Zingamoto Afrika “Nindirona Njira”. I am 100% sure this song will be a) played on the radio soon and b) used for a commercial. Great potential & remake of classic Kiuk tunes with Swa lyrics. These guys are from Mathare (Nbo), btw. (their song reminds me a bit of these Afro Rock tunes from the 1970s…nice one!).

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Shanta “Ndolo”. Does she have a record out yet? This could really sell big times on the European market. Hot!

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Bosco Mulwa “Kwitu Makueni”. I call him the “Papa Wemba styler”, Soukous elements in his song and a confident performance. This guy has the potential to entertain masses.

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Sauti “Nakuja” Kenya’s new boygroup? Their song sounded a bit strange due to complicated harmonics but they seem to bear a great potential for much more and had a very pleasant appearance. Good voices!

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Imbako International “Halala”. Look at this man in blue jeans :-)

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Anthony Mutuku “Chowa” – Joe Cocker has a brother?

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“Speed Governor” [Speediii Gaaveeehhnaaa] by Ronald Ontiri. Ok, this was my first choice. I have never been more impressed by someone performing with such eloquence and self-assurance. This song ROCKS!

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Zannaziki’s performance…

Due to restricted internet access here, I couldn’t manage to upload the videos I shot to give you an impression or at least some tunes to actually hear it (maybe later). Lots of ppl caught this on video – so it might be interesting to see if it will be available online somewhere (kenyamoto?).

Sooooo……the bottom line for me is that I shall check out more Kisii tunes in future. Anyone remember otongolo times by Poxy Presha? What a potential….and remember: this compilation has just been a selection of bands. There’s much more out there. Ngoma ni maisha! :-)

(@Mental: did you come?)

“wapi?” (part 8)

karuracid

Kenya Tourists (KTs) will clearly identify this screenshot from GoogleEarth as Karura Forrest & CID HQ (blue roofs) next to Kiambu Road.
Kenya Residents (KRs, or Kenyan Roots as M puts it) will use this to remember what Karura Forrest looked like before it was castrated / sacrified for technological progress aka urbanization.

(technorati-should-be-keywords: how to we explain this to our children)