beef kebap & co

Everyone, THX for the comments! Just accessed my mails via Celtel & Safaricom dial-up. In fact, I bought a Celtel SIM card today to check out their GPRS for prepaid customers (first card I had bought was expired so I had to return it – imagine that!) but whatever I try – it just doesn’t work. Will I have to wait until I am back in Nai @ SaritCentre to eventually understand the settings needed for GPRS + my computer? Or…Mental, saidia mimi tafadhali: how did you set it up on your 6230(i)? I understand that GPRS is much better. I do have a notebook + bluetooth connection + Nokia 6230i + Nokia PC Suite 6.81. (rel 13) but just can’t get it going with GPRS. Dial-up works fine though, although @ 9.600…

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So I tried this “Ndugekire maguta mengi irio-ri” thing on the mpichi that cooks @ the snack bar downstairs – I wrote it down so that he would understand it. As a result of that, the whole kitchen staff explained to me the difference between “beef smokies” and “beef sausages” (they still look the same to me, but so what) and I ended up being served with something called “Beef kebap” for 30 /=.

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Delicious!

The knife is “Made in Germany” – and while pointing this out to one of the waiters (“Hey, the knife is from my country..” ), he imediately named almost all players and trainers of the German National (soccer) team. Now THAT’s Kenya :-)

On my way to work, I came across these dead Land Rovers that had been parked on a government plot.

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……………

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Embu doesn’t seem to be too hectic. These birds (in the middle of the picture) awaited the first flying ants that came out of a hole in the ground and caught them “in action”. It really rained buckets last night, but just about lunch time, Embu again looked like a dry city in the sun…I guess it’s the light and the Jacaranda trees that make this town so charming.

home sweet home (in Embu)

1 EUR ==> ~ 90 Kshs.

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1 new bed (made from cheaper materials, Embu price): 1650 /= Kshs.
1 new high density mattress 6,7 x 4 ft.: 3550 /= Kshs.
1 high density foam 20″ x 22″ (to fit in the remaining frame the mattress doesn’t cover – hey, I am tall!): 230 /= Kshs.
1 really huge (72 x 90″) blanket: 675 /= Kshs.
2 pillows (27 x 18″): 398 /= Kshs.
4 pc bed & pillow sheets: 799 /= Kshs.
1 Kikoi to cover the window: 300 /= Kshs.
1 “PermaNet” pre-treated mosquito net: 800 /= Kshs.

A wonderful colleague by the name of Zakayo who organised the bed at this price, had it delivered to the room, kicked the landlord to have the room repainted in time and just stood in front of the building when I arrived: priceless .

Zakayo – thengiu muno!

We rushed to Maguna Andu (“helping people”) supermarket here in Embu to buy the mattress etc before the shops closed and rewarded us with the obligatory Tusker and some mbuzi choma.

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2 kgs of Mbuzi for 4 people

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preparing the meat for the grill…

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(pole for the weak picture quality)

Mbuzi (goat), Kachumbari (tomatoes, onions), Ugali (maize), Salt, Tusker (beer) and coke. YEAH!

When I woke up next day, I still smelled like a goat. Thx god it’s a holiday.

My room is approx. 20m away from a bar/restaurant…meaning: I smell fried chips and the meat grill while writing these lines, am killing cockroaches who want to make their way from the bathroom to my bed, there is no water in the “kitchen” and I have meanwhile gotten used to the noises coming from the bar (which opens @ 7 a.m. and closes long after I’ve gone to bed)…but it’s a safe (?) place somewhere downtown in Embu, relatively cheap, on a tarmacked (sp?) road (less mud during rainy season) and right now they are playing Daudi Kabaka’s “Safari Tanganyika”. Could I ask for more?

YES! An internet café would be nice… *gg*

twin luck??!

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“TWIN LUCK” insecticide chalk…..this stuff actually WORKS!

I was cleaning the bathroom when a really huge cockroach climbed my leg in panic. I think it didn’t like the DETTOL I poured on its homebase. Well, bad luck, Mr Cockroach.

After the water dried up, I applied this chalk and just after a few minutes, I saw a middle-sized cockroach running through the drawn chalk lines and instantly falling on its back and dying. An amazingly effective poison.

(Insects kama ants are ok for me, lakini these cockroaches come from the sewage tank and THEN walk over my food & dishes. Not nice…).

The Collector of Worlds

Anyone remembers Binyavanga’s comment on “Nairobi people living in two different worlds?”. It is so true. Again and again.

There was this public reading (organized by the German Cultural Centre (Goethe-Institut) & the German Department @ University of Nairobi) by Ilija Trojanow and Binyavanga Wainaina at the Goethe Auditorium (@ Maendeleo ya Wanawake House – used to be one of Nairobi’s tallest buildings in the 1970s!) on Thursday evening. They jointly read passages in German and English from a new book by Ilija Trojanow about Sir Richard Francis Burton, a “Mecca pilgrim and world traveller” (btw, Burton also introduced the first edition/translation of the Indian Kamasutra books to the UK among other stories). Ilija wrote a biographical novel aptly titled “Der Weltensammler” (The Collector of Worlds) on R.F.Burton – a man who was just as mysterious and sort of multicultural cosmopolitan as the author himself. Someone who kept track of his Wanderlust and never really stuck to a place. But whereas Burton’s wife eventually burned all his diaries, Trojanow has been an active publisher and promoter of books. I like Ilija’s picturesque style of describing situations, and how he manages to combine all these different worlds under one roof by using different characters / perspectives in his book.

I had read about this event in the Daily Nation on Tuesday and instantly knew it would be a perfect chance to meet some old friends at the GI. Ilija used to be a student @ the German School in Nairobi way back in the 1970s/80s and has since then often returned to the country. He’s a third culture kid like most of us out here in the blogosphere (all Nairobians are to some extent, ama?) and seems to have an understanding of the culture in the colonial East Africa and how to describe it in his book through the eyes of Burton. An interesting story.

I think it is against this background that made him write a novel on such a controversial character Burton was. And of course the Arab + East African connection: Trojanow recently  accepted (not: converted to!) the Islam as his religion because parts of his family already share that believe (and for other, much more intimate reasons which he disclosed in other interviews online. Reasons that make me understand this rather unusual, but very motivated move) . Burton disguised as a Muslim pilger in order to go on a pilgrimage to Mecca (he even received a circumcision to fully prepare for the pilgrimage!) – something Trojanow also achieved (~ getting a visa for Saudi Arabia) by living with the Deobandi in India for some time.

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Binyavanga and Ilija are two very different characters who – in my opinion – have come around and have an understanding for the cosmopolitan context (both lived in SA, btw). An ability which is needed to describe situations – I guess you have to be some sort of collector to aggregate impressions/worlds and imagine them in your head before you can put them down in words. After all, it’s just not the beauty of the language that attracts people to read, but the way these worlds are combined / arranged and described using appropriate words. Both authors know how to do this – and have found their readers here and elsewhere.

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Talking of B.Wainaina – Kwani? #4 will be out soon and hopefully available for the christmas market. All KenyanTourists (KTs) abroad should seriously think about getting their copy this time. Kwani #1,#2 & #3 have already been a success story and received with great interest by the public. Obviously, I couldn’t resist from asking both authors about a possible future cooperation, and the idea isn’t so far fetched…Kwani isn’t Wainaina’s only project – he told us about his 2nd (own) book which needs to be finished soon. Good luck!

Going to such events also includes meeting new people…new worlds…new stories. There’s this jamaa by the name of Bernhard we met tonight who came all the way from Germany to Kenya to do an internship at Kenyatta Hospital in Nairobi. Free of charge! Ok, there’s a scholarship that pays for his expenses, but nevertheless – most of you can easily imagine what it takes to work at Kenyatta Hospital. Bernhard told me that he also blogs his experiences. In any case: respect, bro!

Finally: Welcome home, Kui! (<= I would like to put a smiley here..)

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I came home at 10.30 pm, listened to the daily dose of wisdom by my dear friend Njuguna from Ruaka and switched on his tv to see Martha K. answer nasty questions on corruption issues. Martha sure is someone you wouldn’t want to mess with. I somehow like her though.

Being scared off her P.Muiteesque eyes (same scary eyebooools) and very clear line of reasoning against any allegations, we switched channels and tuned into KBC which presented us with this:

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(sorry for the poor sreenshot – I took this occasion to try out my new analog/digital tv pcmcia/pc card and still haven’t found a proper antenna)

One of these typical “dial in” shows where people are supposed to solve very difficult riddles and waste a lot of money on telephone charges. In other words: whoever calls the displayed number will most likely waste his hard earned money.

The other annoying side of it is that the presenters in these shows have no other job but to keep on animating people to pick up the phone and dial that number. Which means that they keep on talking BS and make a fool out of themselves. I wonder how this show is accepted among the public. Do they like it?

You know, in Germany there are about 5 to 7 tv channels at the moment who show such programms starting from around 10 pm every night until morning hours. Some of these presenters even strip naked (breasts) to attract (male) viewers – which of course is very embarrassing in front of those visitors that come from (much) more restriced countries.

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(a screenshot from DSF – sports channel on German tv earlier this year)

Yeah…that’s our world in 2006….

Fellow blogger Majonzi asked me about a possible culture shock in rural Embu. I never expected any luxury in Embu and will of course have to adopt to the rural lifestyle (although of course the place I am staying is still very much urban).
WHAT shocks me though is this KBC programme that doesn’t differ in any ways from what they showing to the masses over in Europe. Same stupidity and tacky way of luring dumb viewers in spending their hard earned money on unsuccesful phone calls.

HAPPY KENYATTA DAY!