Minni Inn Ltd., Embu

There was this management workshop for a gazettable paper which made us book rooms @ Embu’s Minni Inn. The place itself is very basic, but compared to my new flat in Embu downtown it is pure luxury. Things are a little bit different over here. Whereas Nairobi ppl would be spoilt enough to expect certain things, Embu standards are orientated on the rural comfort, meaning: anything that exceeds fetching water from the river is considered luxury.

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A perfect example for the typical kenyanesque overstatement is that they’ve put huge tv sets in each room – despite the fact that there’s really poor reception of tv signals (at least) in this part of Embu. “Please do not try to adjust tv channels” it says on the room information.

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In the very same room you’ll find a broken toilet seat and one of those italian water heaters (!!) installed on the shower which – of course – is out of order. A brand new tv set and poor sanitational facilities? Now how does that match?

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And the best part was this array of nails on a piece of wood – nailed to the middle of the wall BEHIND the bed which was supposed to be some sort of coat hooks. Aterere….

The first night all guest were woken up at 1 am and 3 am but loud noises coming from the Bar area. Since the Bar officially closes down at 11 pm, it was obvious that the watchman would be the one to be blamed: an old askari who doesn’t speak English and who turned up the volume of the installed tv set (+ poor signal reception!) in order to stay awake and get some entertainment.
The first night we prayed for a power failure and things eventually settled at 3.30 am, the second night the noises came back and so I went to the Bar at 4 am and found this old askari sitting there like a dumb sheep. “Kelele…..mbaya….na hakuna maji”. When I woke up at 4, there was no water in the whole place. How come? The hotel has 4 huge containers and a ferrocement tank but the pump is a little bit faulty and needs to be continously switched on and off in order to work. The guy in charge of that (who??) apparently forgot to take care of it.

“Station under new management” – one often reads this marketing slogan on petrol stations. I wish this could be applied on Minni Inn as well. With the right management and some more diligence / speed by the employees, this place could rock. But instead they prefer to let themselves go. Ok ok, they have never been to places like The Grand Regency, Serena, Hemingway’s (the toilets!), etc etc to see what’s possible, and no one expects a middle class hotel to offer the same luxury as a 4 star Hotel. However, there are a few things that just require little amounts of money and some time in order to make guest feel very welcome.

Minni Inn Ltd., Embu

single room 250/= Kshs.
single room (self contained) 500/= Kshs.
double room (self contained) 1.000/= Kshs.

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One of the few moments when people are brought together in unity (watching soccer :-).

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Ugali, fried potatoes and nyama, nyama, nyama…..

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…you eat nyama all day long and end up longing for such a plate full of vegetabooools na fruits.

My wonderful colleagues have found a nice flat/room for me in Embu for 3.500/= /month. Very secure, with a nice view on Embu. The previous tenant has been a Somali who slept on the floor and who left the place covered with rubbish when he moved out. Did he get his deposit back? If you do this in Germany, your landlord will track you down and kick your butt until it really hurts. Since the place is so popular with Embu folks, the landlord wouldn’t have probs renting it out so cleaning is a matter left to the next tenant. Which would be me.

rural internet

Holadiho! I was just abooool to read my email via the phone’s internal wap browser (Nokia 6230i). Right here in Embu, Kenya. Now that’s cool.

Next task will be to find a decent internet café. In the meantime I am dreaming of free WLAN networks/hotspots all over the country.

Speaking of Productivity issues: I spent about 5 hrs last Sunday morning moving from one inet café to the next just to download my emails and trying to blog some stuff. At around 4 pm, I was so pissed that my blogdesk uploading tool didn’t work (due to inet connection issues) and that I had actually wasted the best part of the day on such a dumb task. Am I stupid? I guess so…and all of that while still in NAIROBI!

So….Nairobi or Embu, going online works as long as you stick to your mobile phone. As soon as you dial Safaricom’s #951, the trouble starts as you’re charged per minute while nothing happens. Being online doesn’t imply that one can be productive (~ downloading informations). THAT’s a real pain. Who wants to pay for a service that doesn’t work the way it is supposed to be?

KJT Datsun

While working on the Suzuki, I came across this KJT (~ 1976?) Datsun station wagon which was completely worn out.

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The owner of the car told me that it had been involved in an accident and was parked under a tree at a local police station for some time. He wants to invest the sum of 20.000 Kshs to have it repaired and then intends to sell it for 120.000 Kshs. The bench was covered with exterior spare parts…

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“Yes, the motor, no problem – when I put a battery here, it just takes one kick and it can start.” – “Aterere….”

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“Come back on Tuesday”, the owner told me, “…and you’ll see this car like new.”

Yeah, sure…. (==> KENYA believe it??! :-)

jua kali ²

Somewhere downtown Nairobi there is a place called ” Kaburi” on Quarry Road. Muslim cemeteries have given the place it’s name – and just like dead bodies, the area also accomodates jua kali workshops – auto/car garages that turn dead car chassis into saleable items of desire. In other words: if you have a broken car and need it to be fixed fast, cheap and efficiently: THIS is the place. I think it’s also the CHEAPEST place in Kenya.

I was told they have a turnover of about a million Kshs. every day – remember: everyone of the guys working there needs to pocket about 500/= Kshs. per day (on average) in order “to buy lunch”. The basic principles of this business are that a) work is done fast and b) the place regulates itself (hakuna City Council supervision). Anyone who dares to mess with customers will be thrown out the compound. Strict rules for a self-regulating business. Hard, but fair.

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The “operating room” (note NBO’s skyline in the background)

Our 1986 Suzuki SierraJX (“Hey, my friend, how much for you car? Me I want to buy…” – ppl love these small 4WD cars) needed a refurbishment and when we got it some time ago, I had removed the old carpets inside which were just too dirty. Our dear friend Peter showed us the way to the place and also helped to negotiate the prices. Since I had already removed the old carpets, making news ones by using the patterns was a relatively simple job for the experienced fundis. After choosing the desired material (really thick but stilll flexible carpet for 800 Kshs./m), they rushed away to buy everything needed and after that immediately started working. Anyone who says things in Kenya are slow should pay these guys a visit.

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taking measurements…

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A matatu had ordered a new interior…

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1,2,3….done!

While waiting for the carpets to be finished, other guys (of course) approached us and offered their services. “My friend” (the typical mzungu approach), “you need licence plates duplicating? For front and back licence plate me I just charge you…..uhmm….500 Kshs. ..and I will make them straight and recolour them, even with reflecting colour, and put something around them and make them look nice. Look, yours are worn out…” – “Yeah, well, but you see: mine can still work – isn’t it? Even I could only give you 50 bob per plate…” – “Oh, but please, my friend, help me to buy lunch….” – “Oh, I think maybe next time but thx anyways…”

One of these guys actually managed to persuade us to have the car repainted from the inside. We urgently wanted to have this done, actually also from the outside – the car needs a major “beautification programme” – but time was running out and money is always limited so we just went for the inside repaint job. Pull out a 1.000 Kshs. and these guys will actually dismantle the interior of your car, clean it (more or less), respray it (= > hire a painter for that particular job!) and put everything back into place. Unfortunately, these guys weren’t as fast as the carpet dudes – whereas the carpets were done within 2 hours (!), the guy responsible for the repainting job just talked in Agwambo-style and gave commands to his colleague who was supposed to do the job. Since we also had other appointments on this very special saturday :-), I put on my own overall and pulled out the screwdrivers and spanners. Imagine a foreigner somewhere in Nairobi’s River Road area jua kali workshops in an overall who actually works on a car whereas the Kenyan customers just stand next to their cars and give commands to the fundis. There’s always a way to make fun of yourself. But so what…

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Yess….sloooooooow work :-)

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Look! Even (Germany’s Ex-Chancellor) G.Schröder witnessed the beautification process! :-)

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Harambee! Some cars are just moved from A to B to C and back to A….

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Compressors such as this one (left) are used for repainting jobs – these guys are specialised.

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mixing the colour…

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After finishing his job, he carefully made sure that not a single drop of petrol was left inside the (rented) compressor motor’s tank – but forgot the empty (metal) paint container. He just left it there – I SO much hate this attitude of disposing waste just like that. There’s no concept. Our industrialized world is nothing but a huge landfill….aaaaargh!

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Sawasawa, ama? After 20 minutes of drying, the carpets came…

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Fixing the carpet….

We arrived at 10:30 am and left the place at ~ 03:30 pm. Not bad for a start. And I know we’ll be back for more…

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These are lockers as used by the (older) fundis. The’ve put their mobile phone numbers on them so that they can be reached in any case. The mobile phone industry has opened up so many different opportunities in Kenya…an interesting development, I think.

AOB:

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Who’s this DJ @ Club Soundd? Horriboool mixture sato nite… the place is nice though. Also home to Kwani? open mic sessions…and no nasty cigarette smoke!! :-)

the soil

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Bata – she shoes sandoools that say you know Africa have made the mistake of using them during the rainy season (I wore them in May this year and washed them about 3x with Omo “Powerfoam”). I prefer the cheaper ones anyways (red and blue type).

Spotlight on Kenyan Music Vol. 2

When I woke up this morning, it was still dark outside. The bed is just next to the window and when I opened my eyes, I first of all mistook the darkness for a missing view only to realize a few moments later on that some things are actually better than what they look like at first moment.

Last night saw us going to an event called “Spotlight on Kenyan Music 2006” – a “finalist’s concert and cd launch” organized by the Alliance Française (sponsored by Total & the embassy) which presented the “best of the 2006 Spotlight on Kenyan music harvest representing Nyanza, Western, Rift Valley, Eastern and Nairobi Provinces”.
I once worked for Total (in Germany) and my parents had been working for the German Cultural Centre before, so it’s this mixture of interests that always hunts me down and reminds me what kind of “Kulturpolitik” the French have (compared to the Germans). Now that’s a completely different approach, and speaking from the European perspective, I am delighted that at least the French(men) have found some sponsoring that helps to organize such wonderful events:

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Spotlight on Kenyan Music Vol. 1 has already been a success – my friend Mbuzimoja had sent me a compilation last year, so this time I didn’t want to miss it and catch the spirit for myself. The spirit of “new” music that is being performed by local artists, something that makes you feel proud of the country and lets you forget about imported styles. No HipHop (pole Msanii_XL), but instead a focus on local tunes being reinterpreted by local artists. Something that wasn’t possible 10 years ago – all these fine networks and developments weren’t possible back then as we didn’t have a wide choice of tv channels, radio channels (that would air new tunes to far away places), a strong middle-class with lots of transport (= activity downtown even after 8 pm), efficient telecommunication networks and this overall Uhuru spirit (as I like to call it) people felt right after independance. In other words: the framework is there and it’s about time that we wake up to local music being played on the radio – not only Dolly Parton, JayLo and other imported tunes & styles. And beware – as my guitar teacher Maurice always liked to stress out: the tunes found in many Soukous songs actually come from Western Kenya and have only been interpreted by Congolese artists. So even when you hear Soukous tunes on the new Spotlight Sampler – that’s the Kenyan heritage!

The event took place at Alliance Française Gardens in Nairobi, entrance was free and it sure attracked lots of young people. Good!
This years artists included Ronald Ontiri, Naitiri Sounds, Anthony Mutuku, Bosco Mulwa, Imbako International, Shanta, Zingamoto Afrika, Sauti, Zippy Okoth, Teto Tutuma and Valentine Khakasa. The lineup was similar to the one on CD, every artist perfomed his/her song and the crowd started dancing despite of the intermittent rains. Good music needs to be enjoyed and shared – and I wonder where this event will be hosted next year. Maybe Uhuru Park? Would be great!

As a bonus, ZANNAZIKI came as “guest appearance” but they sounded way too professional compared to the other artists and somehow disappointed but that’s just my impression. The Spotlight sampler sold for 600/= Kshs. and was available as CD and on tape. The guy from the record company pointed out that it had been licenced to oversee markets as well – so maybe we’ll soon find it in the US and Europe?
For those who like good and new local music, and who really appreciate this much awaited approach on the local music scene (while ignoring all recent developments in the HipHop world), the purchase of the Spotlight Samplers is a must just like all three Kwani? books :-)

Some snapshots from the event:

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Teto Tutuma with “Iyie Ake” (“Only You”), delivering a very authentic performance

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Zingamoto Afrika “Nindirona Njira”. I am 100% sure this song will be a) played on the radio soon and b) used for a commercial. Great potential & remake of classic Kiuk tunes with Swa lyrics. These guys are from Mathare (Nbo), btw. (their song reminds me a bit of these Afro Rock tunes from the 1970s…nice one!).

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Shanta “Ndolo”. Does she have a record out yet? This could really sell big times on the European market. Hot!

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Bosco Mulwa “Kwitu Makueni”. I call him the “Papa Wemba styler”, Soukous elements in his song and a confident performance. This guy has the potential to entertain masses.

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Sauti “Nakuja” Kenya’s new boygroup? Their song sounded a bit strange due to complicated harmonics but they seem to bear a great potential for much more and had a very pleasant appearance. Good voices!

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Imbako International “Halala”. Look at this man in blue jeans :-)

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Anthony Mutuku “Chowa” – Joe Cocker has a brother?

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“Speed Governor” [Speediii Gaaveeehhnaaa] by Ronald Ontiri. Ok, this was my first choice. I have never been more impressed by someone performing with such eloquence and self-assurance. This song ROCKS!

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Zannaziki’s performance…

Due to restricted internet access here, I couldn’t manage to upload the videos I shot to give you an impression or at least some tunes to actually hear it (maybe later). Lots of ppl caught this on video – so it might be interesting to see if it will be available online somewhere (kenyamoto?).

Sooooo……the bottom line for me is that I shall check out more Kisii tunes in future. Anyone remember otongolo times by Poxy Presha? What a potential….and remember: this compilation has just been a selection of bands. There’s much more out there. Ngoma ni maisha! :-)

(@Mental: did you come?)

“wapi?” (part 8)

karuracid

Kenya Tourists (KTs) will clearly identify this screenshot from GoogleEarth as Karura Forrest & CID HQ (blue roofs) next to Kiambu Road.
Kenya Residents (KRs, or Kenyan Roots as M puts it) will use this to remember what Karura Forrest looked like before it was castrated / sacrified for technological progress aka urbanization.

(technorati-should-be-keywords: how to we explain this to our children)